Though there have been other incarnations in history, the modern fashion phenomenon of the dandy began to seep into popular culture in the late eighteenth, and early nineteenth centuries primarily in London and Paris. Then, as now the typical dandy was born into a middle-class family. Through dress, etiquette, and elocution, the dandy strove to emulate and associate oneself with the aristocracy. Therein lays the roots of modern consumers aspirationally buying into lifestyle branding and marketing. Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881, a Scottish satirical writer) said, “A Dandy is a clothes-wearing Man, a Man whose trade, office and existence consists in the wearing of Clothes. Every faculty of his soul, spirit, purse, and person is heroically consecrated to this one object, the wearing of Clothes wisely and well: so that the others dress to live, he lives to dress ...”. At to top of the fashion food chain are dandies that have built global empires by becoming synonymous with fashion. John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, and Karl Lagerfeld, epitomize dandyism at its most powerful.
Karl Lagerfeld born circa 1930, in true dandy form, proves not only ladies never reveal their true age. His publicized crash diet in the mid 90’s also had dandy written all over it. He began his long career in fashion in 1953 as a draftsman for fashion houses. He is most notable known for designing Chanel. Lagerfeld’s signature look involves a silver ponytail, large sunglasses, a white exaggerated collared shirt, a black tie, a black jacket, black pants, and black shoes. Jewelry also plays an important part in the look. Necklaces and rings are often worn en masse. Fingerless gloves frequently adorn his hands while still allowing space for glittering rings. To the lay person, it may appear that he wears a uniform, but under further inspection one sees that couldn’t be further from the truth.
John Galliano, born 1960, the former head designer for Givenchy, and most recently at Dior, was one of the many designers brought to the public by American Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Where his look lacks the formulaic approach of Lagerfeld’s, it makes up for it in theatricality. Both personally and in his designs, Galliano has a penchant for historical references. He is most often seen in number of hat styles and suited, though usually shirtless or at the least bare chested. He tends to don a thin moustache and a soul patch. No matter what the ensemble, his signature is an air of drama.
Marc Jacobs, post-modern dandy, was born in 1963. He is the designer for his signature labels, Marc Jacobs and Marc, by Marc Jacobs, as well as Louis Vuitton. He is also known for bringing the Grunge look into popularity. We have witnessed his look transform into many incarnations. It can be said that change is his signature style. He is also known for, at last count, 28 tattoos. One of which notable reads “bros before hoes”. When he first appeared on the scene, he was round faced, long haired, and sported nerdy glasses. He also donned his own grunge look which included silk shirts printed to look like flannel and cashmere made to look like cheap thermal underwear. He is known for being more aligned with rocker or street cultures. He can be seen in a tank top, cargoes, and sandals, or a shirt and chunky boots just as often as he has been seen in a sleek modern tailored suit. His current persona is reminiscent of Tom Ford’s signature polished porn star Adonis replete with bronzed skin and a perfected physic.The Three designer dandies we have talked about all wear controversy as an accesory. Galliano dominated the news recently with allogations of anti semetic statements, but before that Lagerfeld also ran into trouble in the 90’s when he used a verse from the Koran as a graphic in a collection. Jabocs filled countless healdines with stories of drug use and rehab and then more drug use. Being a dandy is not just about being well dressed. It is the complete package. Its presence and persona. It’s a lifestyle.
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