Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Sue Wang

Laure du Pabillon, who’s the power behind the Christian Lacroix shows. She began her career at Nina Ricci. After, she joins the House of Jean Patou where she worked to assist the young and new designers. Laure stepped into the role of PR director for Christian Lacroix, which position she held for 22 years, she organizing Lacroix’s Paris shows four times a year; also manage the brand image internationally. 

On Thursday, May 5th, She present as a special guest for Academy of art fashion show events. She shared with us the incredible craftsmanship of French masters who are behind the scenes of Haute Couture and fashion luxury. Also she talked about the Lesage embroidery, which is a traditional embroider technique, when haute couture designers need embroidery, they go to Lesage.













    JEAN-Francois Lesage









How they works:
The drawing 
Every embroidery begins with a drawing; the drawing itself is first done on scale in pencil on a tracing paper. This process can sometimes require 2 to 3 weeks of work. 


    
The pricking

Once the drawing is complete, the embroiderers prick the same with a fine needle so as to perforate it entirely following the outlines of the drawing. This delicate operation can necessitate 2 to 3 days of work for a dozen embroiderers.



Fixing the design
Once pricked, the tracing is held by the embroiderers who place it either on a fabric extended on aframe or on a table when the fabric is too supple or risks being deformed.



Now the embroidery can begin 
The embroidery frame is in wood and can weigh upto 120 kgs for a 6 meter frame. 



The embroidery
The embroidery develops from the centre to the outside, by opening the fabric rolled around the frames and by stretching the fabric each time on the frame with the help of steam that is passed from underneath so as to maintain the fabric perfectly stretched. 




The tools
The needle and the crochet or hook make up the essential tools of an embroiderer. The crochet is a sort of fish hook which enables the embroiderer to get a grip on the thread which he holds in his left hand under the frame, to pass it through the fabric and by twisting his crochet to make a knot which resembles a link in a chain; from where the name chain stitch. The embroiderers often make their own crochets which they adapt to their hands.






Sue Wang



Graduation Fashion Show

Passionate graduation fashion show on May 5, 2012, and start with an enthusiastic claps moved on the first student collection. The student portfolios changes with perfect suitable music, which, explained a different story of their collection and transferred an each emotion to their audients. Fabrication that they used like: cotton, linen, lightens weight leather, silk, wood, and knitted fabric. There was one of the most interesting fabric is a transparent gelatin look materials. Styles on this show can be identifiable and explored each design student’s unique concept and inspiration. Mix up fabric with long silhouettes was the theme for this fashion show. Whereas, with a bouncing music, a static with a lively collection was riding on a rhythm perfectly and changed in desirable features, which layer by layer with vivid patterns that jumped around with motionless corset. 

















































Graduating fashion show that ending in happy tears on outstanding design students with their honors. As one of the biggest events in Academy of Art, fashion department invited so many prestigious guests of honor, which included Cathy Horyn, Nathalie Rykiel, Yigal Azrouël, Andrew Buckler, Steven Cox & Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown, Christina Neault, and Laure du Pavillon reviewed student portfolios and sat front row to view the collections of our graduating seniors.





Three talented students won award graduating top price: Maggie Luo Mo, Donna Dong Zhang, and Juhyun park. Maggie luo mo, is the most lucky award student that can go for Paris have her internship, and the other award one year scholarship for studying in French.

















































Maggie’s is a double major in fashion design and knitwear, her inspiration of her knitwear portfolio is discover the sea and the illuminate water inspired her.























































Dona Dong Zhang’s inspiration is 1940’s zoot suit, she combined classic tailored jacket with the valued draped baggy pant. 
































































Juhyun this time inspired by Stone washed, Mark Pothko’s abstract paintings. Washed linen, and stitching on the garment were the theme for her collection.




Amazing creative fabric fashion piece by Randy Brooke, this piece looks like gelatin material, but it’s knitting piece. I know it’s not making sense, while the truth is the design student knitted pattern and silhouette first and pour the gelatin on the top of the knitting pieces.


















































       
lively collection was riding on a rhythm perfectly and changed in desirable features, which layer by layer with vivid patterns that jumped around with motionless corset.




















































The graduating runway show was a core platform for those passionate fashion students to explore their creative talents. Also our guests of honor provide extremely desirable opportunities for design students who award in fashion event, and stimulate all of fashion student's passion in fashion.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Sue Wang

Movement and jumpy style not only appears on the fashion show, while it also exist in a talented Asian artist name is zhong biao recent exhibition in San Francisco.






Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Unexpected Expectations YenXuan Zhao


When sitting down the auditorium before the show began, I kept wondering what the show would become of in the next hour. And it turned out I was never disappointed. The Graduation Fashion Show 2011 was as amazing as it was expected to be. I feel so excited to have the opportunity to write down every detail of the fashion show, which has already become a part of my eternal memory.
The first surprise that the show presented would definitely go to the outstanding designers who were so creative to give us a brilliant show that was full of novel ideas. I was stunned when Inez-Maria Galvet’s idea was put into reality.

The next few series were both appealing and amazing. Somehow I had the feeling that I was attending a qualified collection show in the fashion industry. My breath was taken away when I behold Margaret Yoha’s work, which was not only colorful, but was bold enough to predict future trend in the fashion industry. Although Yoha’s design had little bearing with nude colors or rubber effect fabrics that were considered the most fashionable element of the day, I found her design was quite innovative in that the bright colors were aptly applied in the loosen-fitted clothes. I found her design was quite innovative in that the bright colors were aptly applied in the loosen-fitted clothes. Although the clothes did not cling to the body, they managed to present a beautiful silhouette of the models on the runway as well as their unique style, which was both faddish and prone to be imitated.

The most unbelievable design of the whole show would absolutely go to Maggie mu luo’s design. The blue color shades and the knit profile reminded me of the feeling of ocean and after exchanged ideas with my friends, I found this was exactly the effect that Maggie expected from the design. The fine knits and the bell sleeves were especially interesting to present a bold silhouette, which was not normal in the collection that I had seen in the past. Besides the water feeling that they gave to me, the designs were also functional in that they left feelings of warmth and safety. What it would feel like to be shrouded in such material in the middle of cold days? 







Besides the creative designs, another plus of the fashion show went to the bang music. The music made the whole fashion come alive and had the magic to make the viewers lose the track of location as well as the time at times. It could be boldly asserted the fashion show could never be so impressive without the help of the choice music.
For me, I found the most impressive thing was the bold designs came from the creative designers, some of whom I think were bound to become the backbone of the future fashion world. Although classic designs from famous designers could be found in the collection from time to time, such as how to achieve a perfect transition from a light color to a grey one and what components to add so as to present a better optical effect when it came to short jackets, we could never be too critical when we ware viewing graduation work from students of the Academy of Art. 

 
Lidewij Edelkoort is a legendary figure in the fashion world. It is reported that she had never made mistakes in her predictions about future trend. Li Edelkoort is considered as an icon of style whose acute sense of what trend tomorrow will bring has attracted a number of influential figures and corporations across the globe. The Dutch woman has such insightful comments about what people would like in future that her comments have priceless value for big companies.
I particularly appreciated Li Edeloort’s forecast for the 2012-2013 autumn/winter in San Francisco St. Brigid Church on May 10th. Her words were so enlightening that I was convinced what she had predicted was bound to be translated into reality in the near future.
Li Edeloor’s forecast for the 2012-2013 was mostly based on her theory about wellness, the most important factor for people of days when they are evaluating their daily lives. In an age that is characterized by terrorism, economic crisis and climate change, people are more and more concerned about the wellness of daily life, which could be reflected in almost every aspect of everyday living. For example, instead of expecting a long holiday after month-long work, we are more concerned about the “a holiday everyday” spirit, which means have a sense of relaxation and enjoyment in everyday life, which normally goes to holidays.
When it comes to the fashion trend of 2012-2013 autumn/winter, Li Edelkoort emphasized the coziness of apparels, which could be reflected in natural raw materials, as they are more comfortable to wear. The increasing concern on the everyday comfort requires fashion trend to make necessary change so that people’s need could be satisfied.
Besides forecast of materials, Li Edelkoort also predicted the increasing role of army or navy elements in the future fashion designs. It is understandable that army and navy elements are highlighted as the topics about wars have surged in the past few years. Based on the Li Edelkoort’s theory of wellness, people’s increasing concern about security and comfort would inevitably lead emphasis on soldiers’ livers as they are just what around us in our lives.
The most creative and impressive part of Li Edelkoort’s predictions about tomorrow’s trend is her interest in boyfriend and vagabond style. Girls become more and more interested in men’s outfit. I think part of the reasons for the phenomenon is that females are taking more and more career responsibility in nowadays, which sometimes blurs the limits between male and female, which is totally different picture in the last century. As to the vagabond style, it is a reflector of people’s lack for security and comfort, which stems from the political landscape nowadays, as far as I am concerned.
All in all, Li Edelkoor has made bold and reasonable predictions about the trend to come. Some may doubt the certainty. As a loyal devotee to Li Edelkoor’s predictions, I would be more than glad to receive people’s marvel when they found everything Li Edelkoor has predicted become a reality.