Thursday, May 19, 2011

Sue Wang


Lidewij Edelkoort who often referred to as the "Trend Forecasters, Trend Forecaster". she stared her career as a buyer at department store "De Bijenkorf" in 1975 she relocated to France where she set up as an independent trend cousultant, and soon she created the consultancy Trend Union a trend forecasting service based in Paris.she, Also, she has developed concepts and beauty products for Estée Lauder, Lancôme, LOréa, Shiseido, Dim, and Gucci

she intended for Designers, fashion buyers, fashion marketing directors, trend researchers, fashion designers, interior designers, architects, product designers, automotive designers, photographers, art directors, furniture designers, packaging designers, graphic designer.
The presentation of trend forecasting for 2012-2013 autumn/winter, in San Francisco St. Brigid Church in May 10th. it would highlight the color and fashion trends, fabrication, retail store, general and concept store and so on.

what trends did she interpret from her presentation?
  • sanctuary will be the influencing place that designer would be adopt elements form it, such as Sculptures, interior, and clothes style.sanctuary will be the influencing place that designer would be adopt elements form it, such as Sculptures, interior, and clothes style.



  • Army & Navy-  army and navy have influenced fashion ever since the war in Vietnam.









  •  ECO- Brands that are using recycling, bio textile and sustainable style 


  • Students studying fashion and textiles at the University of Technology, Sydney, Australia, were challenged to find high-fashion solutions for recycling old neoprene wetsuits



    
  •  Re-Luxury-taught by the crisis and finally growing up, to other domains. Such as Pajama, baby cares, gloves.







  • Monomind – is a retail store of only concentrating on shirts. 


  •   Boyfriends – girls wear men’s style outfit,
  • Vagabond- nobody and homeless style.


  • Vivienne Westwood Echoes Zoolander in Milan 2010



Coco Meng Hu- Fashion Show Report




I had the pleasure of attending the fashion show 2011 of Academy Art of University in San Francisco. I would say it's truly amazing to see such wonderful work by fashion students, amazing by their creativity and how they use the talent they have been blessed with. There will be 16 collections to be presented on the runway designing by 20 students as 5 of the collections are collaborations. Inez-Marie Galvez, Margaret Yoha, Peter Ngyyen, Ashley J. Jung, Brittany Burggraff, Wendy Tam, Cynthia Tran, Donna Dong Zhong, Shannon Wong, Drew Williams, Fayrouz Abi Assi, Juhyun Park, Lisa Relth, Maggie Mo Luo, and Stephanie Duarte,those students are come from different departments of fashion design including knitwear design, menswear design, textile design, and jewelry design, but all of them made their debut o the runway as they presented their amazing collection.  Those in attendance included the likes of fashion critic Cathy Horyn, designer Yigal Azrouël, Sonia Rykiel President and Artistic Director Nathalie Rykiel. This fashion show could be considered as the visual storm in the fashion industry, that covering various styles from lavishly elegance to extremely romanticism.

 
I personally was extremely impressed by the students’ work as well as the program the Academy has in place. One of collections that was standout was from Margaret Yoha, whose collection was inspired by both Jean-Jacuqes Rousseau’s concept of the Noble Svage and Henri Rousseau’s naive jungle painting. The perfect interaction of Rousseau’s back burner idea from the State of Nature and Henri Rousseau’s vibrant imaginary jungle scenes allowed Margaret to successfully represent her concept of lavishly natural impressionism. 
         I would say that Margaret Yoha successfully launched a wild visual storm of fashion, which respectively created from liquid latex-coated prints, silk noil, and burlap in extremely nature-color, such as mint green, emerald, forest brown, and straw yellow.






           It’s no deny that Jannika Lilja’s work is a triumph. Her collection was inpired by abandoned spaces and fark moody stories. The abundant use of dark colors like black and dark grey gave people a sense of androgyny, and mood of beauty in decay. 

 


         I would definitely rock the long draping coat, and ankle-length layering skirts in dark colors by Jannika Lilja. Not only it reminds me the avante garde runway dramatic, but it also looks wearable.





The most exciting spotlight during this fashion show was the use of silicone as fabrics from Drew Williams’s playful, candy-colored collection.  This Bay Area knitwear designers successfully combined knits dipped in silicone to create garments that looked like plastic or material made of fruit roll-ups. As she mentioned, she was attracted to silcone because it shared the same consistency as agarose gel, which is used electrophoresis to run DNA samples. As a former molecular biolohy student, Williams specialized in processing technical materials like silicon, bamboo, and plastic as fabrics  to work with her exquisite designs. 
 

Street Styles during the Academy Art of University Fashion Show 2011




Lidewij Edelkoort's presentation
 
        Lidewij Edelkoort could be considered as one of the most distinguished trend forecasters in the fashion industry. She is also an icon of style with her fail-proof sense of what tomorrow’s consumers want, how they will live and what will be important to them. She specializes in the identification and analysis of today’s most influential lifestyle trends, and what tomorrow will bring. Edelkoort and his team travel all over the world, sharing, explaining, and interacting with people about messages of fashion.


         Tuesday, May 10th, 2011, Lidewig Edelkoort and her team, Trend Unions came to San Francisco, and held a presentation dedicated to trend forecasting for F/W 2012 and 2013. This lecture could be divided into several topics, but covered everything from color and texture to mood and state of mind over the coming seasons. Alongside the speech, Edelkoort and her assistor mentioned several key words of fashion such as “ Monomind”, “Re-luxury”, “Sanctuary”, “On-Line shopping”, “Streaming”, “Moving image” and etc, which are brand-new, but indispensable in every branch of industry.






           I was deeply impressed by the nomadic trend, which Edelkoort called “ Vagabond”, reflects sensitivity towards poverty and homelessness. Dirty, ripped clothing, patchwork, toxic waste colors, and recycled, it’s no doubt that Edelkoort this time introduced a bunch of creative ideas of fashion that interpret people’s behavior and moods. This theme reminds me of the eco-friendly fashion, which she and her assistor also mentioned several times in the lecture. “Earth has had enough” Edelkoort Said. Stop plundering of our earth’s resources for our continued senseless consumption. Bio textiles, linen, flannels, and clean energy sources, ECO will be significant in the future. It’s time for people to step in a place of sustainable life and sty le.


                


          In the lecture, Edelkoork also forecasted that the fashion movies for marketing is going to explore in the fashion industry. We have already witnessed that the emergence of fashion movies brought the whole fashion world a fresh sense. Thus, it’s time for the industry to develop a more creative outlet to reach to their consumers.
        
Laure du Pavillon presentation

On Thursday’s lecture Laure du Pavillon presented on Lesage embroidery, craftsmanship and fashion luxury. Laure du Pabillon began her career at Nina Ricci before joining the House of Jean Patou where she worked alongside the young and still “unknown” designer, Laure stepped into the role of PR Director for Christian Lacroix, a position she held for 22 years, as the power behind the Christian Lacroix shows. 

      About “Lesage embroidery” this is the first time I hared about this word. Embroidery is an ornamental technique that consists of adding a decoration that is either flat or raised, to a pre-existing background, generally of cloth. The basic element is the stitch, that is to say, the part of the thread (silk, wool, cotton, metal or any other) that remains on the surface of the cloth. The history of the Lesage embroidery is almost 3000 years. And base on my understanding, Luxury fashion is about making someone feel utterly exclusive, and Couture is the ultimate in timeless, refined and luxurious dressing. The process is an indulgent experience of choice, high quality and fine craftsmanship, and the result is a completely unique reflection of the designer’s style. Laure explained the French masters incredible handcraft. And the future of fashion luxury is increasingly being debated in terms of core values such as tradition, time, craftsmanship, and innovation. I learned when they need opulent embroidery, haute couture designers at Chanel, Dior and other luxury labels go to Lesage. Laure said without those French masters, Haute Couture and fashion luxury would not exist. As well as she talked about the fashion business environment, the economical context, globalization such as new market, which include Brazil, China. For the process of creation, she talked about the human resources, and creativity, now they still work on the development of new business like working with new designers.  

       Now, I finally realized why the price, or cost of embroideries is such high. The processes of embroideries is the same as Haute Couture, which you have to have A passion for your work, and you also have to have patience sewing beads on fabric for embroidery garment. It’s all about the quality of time. Through this lecture, I also got to understand more why Paris is the capital of Haute Couture and how fashion and craftsmanship are two inseparable stories, also the direction of future fashion market.